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, by Kittee Berns
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Product details
File Size: 5615 KB
Print Length: 192 pages
Publisher: Book Publishing Company (February 9, 2015)
Publication Date: February 9, 2015
Sold by: Amazon Digital Services LLC
Language: English
ASIN: B00TFVGCRU
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Before Teff Love arrived into my life I had only eaten vegan Ethiopian food once and I loved it. I am a long-time fan of Kittee Berns’ blog and website. I bought her first Papa Tofu zine but, regretfully, missed out on my chance to buy her second zine: Papa Tofu Loves Ethiopian Food. I was desolate and inconsolable. Suddenly, a light at the end of the tunnel. Ms. Berns was going to be published: a Vegan Ethiopian Cookbook! I wasn’t chosen to be a tester so I had to wait patiently for its release.Brace yourself because this is going to be a VERY long review.First, I need to address the reviews that lament the use of too many obscure spices or ingredients. Teff Love is a very SPECIALISED book: vegan Ethiopian cookery. Just like authentic Indian cookery, it is nuanced and complex; and some dishes call for hard to get spices. The same way that traditional Thai recipes call for galangal, kaffir limes, etc., Ethiopian cuisine requires specific spices.It is not the fault of the book if it calls for “exotic†ingredients. The author set out to write a book that contains recipes that are commonly served at Ethiopian restaurants and other little known traditional recipes. That needed to be said upfront, but while some spices (awjain, koseret, nigella, fenugreek, cardamom) are called for in SOME recipes, Ms. Berns states that she tried to “make the most obscure ingredients optional whenever possible without compromising flavor.â€For example, the author introduces the Seasoned Oil recipe (Ye’Qimen Zeyet, p. 25) by writing: “This recipe is quite flexible. Please don’t skip it if you can’t find some of the ingredients; instead, just omit what you can’t find and include what you can… keeping this flavourful oil on hand makes it easy to whip up Ethiopian food whenever your heart desires. I’m confident that once you taste it, you’ll want extra in the fridge for spontaneous Ethiopian-themed slumber partiesâ€. The Seasoned Oil is simmered for 15 minutes and the most time consuming task is having to mince the onions and grate the garlic and ginger; but you can use your food-processor or use frozen to cut prep time.Once you make the Seasoned Oil you can keep it in the fridge for 3 weeks, or frozen (in ice-cube trays for ease of portioning), for up to two months. I strongly recommend that you take the time to make the Seasoned Oil, it has magical properties and adds so much depth of flavour to recipes.The Seasoned Oil is OPTIONAL in almost every recipe; I only counted 8 recipes that the oil was indeed essential, as it was drizzled on top (porridge for breakfast), used to coat veggie protein balls or was key element in bringing forth a particular flavour profile.It bears repeating: out of 95 recipes, only 8 call exclusively for the use of the Seasoned Oil.Please do not let the spices intimidate or discourage you. The author has kindly responded to a review by giving out suggestions and tips for people who can’t source some of the spices and pointing to chapters on Alicha Wot (mild golden sauces and stews), Cooked Vegetables and Casseroles, and Cold Vegetables, Salads and Dressings. Most of these recipes are seasoned using easy to find grocery store ingredients like garlic, jalapenos, and ginger.Ms Berns listed a few examples of recipes that use very easy to find ingredients:Ethiopian Style Hummus (leave off the berbere), p. 56Split Peas in a Mild Sauce, p. 96White Beans in an Onion-Turmeric Sauce, p. 97Tender Red Lentils, p. 98Hearty Lentils, p. 99Stewed Cabbage, Potatoes, and Carrots, p.100Roasted Butternut Squash in a Mild Sauce, p. 101Beets and Potatoes in a Mild Sauce, p. 103Tender Braised Green Beans, p. 117Hirut's Fasolia, p. 118Tender Stewed Collard Greens, p. 119Cabbage in a Golden Tomato sauce, p. 122Cabbage with Carrots, p. 123Garlic Jojos, p. 128Tomato Salad, p. 134Roasted Beet Salad, p. 135Tangy Lentil Salad, p. 138Stir Fried Roasted Eggplant, p. 156Peanut Tea, p. 172As the author writes “you can easily make the seasoned oil with whatever spices you do have access to like cloves, ginger, garlic, cinnamon, turmeric, and basil. It will be delicious. The harder to find spices are mostly optional.â€â€”———————————————That said, I am not a novice cook, but Ethiopian cookery can be overwhelming. It is traditional to serve 3-4 dishes on top of injera. For the time-strapped, the scattered-brained or the neophyte it’s hard to cook 4 recipes simultaneously AND make the Seasoned Oil AND the Berbere Paste.I can only offer a humble suggestion, take it easy. Peruse the book at your leisure and pick ONE recipe. The Ye’Atakilt Alicha (Stewed Cabbage, Potatoes and Carrots in a Mild Sauce) on page 100 is an excellent side dish; PLUS it’s baked in the oven.You want a protein dish? The Ye’Difin Misser Alicha (p. 99 - Hearty Lentils in a Flavorful, Garlic-Ginger Sauce) is easy, tasty and can be served with rice, crusty bread or atop a tortilla- standing in for the injera.FOR THE TIME-CONSTRAINED:I know it’s hard to believe, but this book is full of weeknight, quick meals, but you need to be prepared. The author gives short-cuts and tips such as:1) using the food processor to mince onions. In my experience, they can be kept refrigerated for 2-3 days. I have never tried to freeze them, but I hear it can be done. :)2) making the Seasoned Oil the week before. Helpful but listed as an optional ingredient for ALL recipes but 8. Can substitute for olive oil. It will be delicious but will lack the depth of taste.3) pressing an entire head of garlic and peeling and grating ginger. If I’m cooking, I grate extra and freeze by the half tablespoonful. That way I dirty the microplane once but make enough for a few recipes.4) pre-boiling your legumes and pulses, draining and storing them separate from the liquid. This easily shaves off 10-30 minutes of bean based recipes.5) pre-cooking veggies (baking beets, sweet potatoes, potatoes, etc) and how to store them.6) If making a feast - Use your oven. There some recipes that are cooked in the oven; thus freeing up valuable stove space and requiring little-to-no supervision.My tips:1) Read the introduction. Also, read the recipes.2) Plan what you are cooking. If making several dishes at once, I doodle a quick table detailing how much and how each basic ingredient is prepared (garlic, ginger, onion, carrot). I use it as a quick guide so I don’t waste time mincing onions, only to find out that 2 recipes called for thinly sliced onions. For example: recipe A needs 1 cup diced carrots, recipe B 1/2 cup half moon carrots.3) If you are a spice-hot wimp, don’t be discouraged. Berbere paste can be made without the cayenne. The Alicha Wot and most of the Cooked Vegetables are mild and you can omit the jalapeños listed in the recipes.4) The recipes can be halved (for the single cook) and most of the stews freeze beautifully. Also, they taste even better the next day - making for excellent leftovers. They can be served hot or room temperature; and I have even eaten them cold.————————————————REVIEW:The book starts with an Introduction which covers a brief history of Ethiopia, Ingredients, Kitchen Tools and Equipment, Techniques, Time-Savers and Tips, Cooking for a Crowd, Grocery list.Then the author gets us acquainted with The Holy Trinity: Berbere, Seasoned Oil and Injera (including a recipe for a quick crepe stand-in for injera). Other chapters include: Foundations, Breakfast, Appetisers and Snacks, Spicy Red Sauces (Kay Wot), Mild Golden Sauces (Alicha Wot), Legume-based Smooth Sauces, Cooked Vegetables, Cold Vegetables and Salads, Injera-Based dishes, Stir-fries, Dumplings and Veggie Proteins, and Beverages and Sweets.Most recipes are gluten-free, soy-free, corn-free, nut-free, but packed with flavour. Ethiopian cookery is well known for its abundant use of oil, so in order to cut out calories, I make the Seasoned Oil double strength (use twice the spices) and use less than stated in the recipes. Nutritional information and yield (in cups) is provided for every recipe.Ms Berns has a warm voice and peppers tips throughout the book. The recipes are simple and clear with straightforward and detailed instructions.I have only a couple of gripes: the index is lacking and some recipes are not included under a particular ingredient, making it hard to find the recipe. Granted, I am a sucker for a comprehensive index. Also, the layout could be better. Some recipes are unnecessarily interrupted by the photo inserts.————————————————RECIPES:I have made over 50 recipes (some I have made more than once) and so far have had only one dud: the Teff Sourdough Starter (Ersho). I am sure it’s through no fault of the author. I live in the tropics and my starter grew mouldy. I had to throw it out. I am going to try again, because I have no local source of injera and most supply stores don’t ship out outside the mainland US.My favourites are (in no particular order):FOUNDATIONS: Soft Uncultured Vegan Cheese (Ayib, p. 36). Easy, creamy and versatile. Can be made nut-free.BREAKFAST: Scrambled Tofu with Ethiopian Spices (Ye’Tofu Enkulal Firfir, p.48). It is the best ever! I have made it soy-free by using chickpeas.KAY WOT (spicy red sauces): Red Lentils in a Spicy Tomato Sauce (Ye’Misser Wot be’timatim, p. 74- I decreased the amount of berbere and made the Split Pea variation). The Flax Seed Stew (Ye’Telba Wot p. 88) was a surprise hit, with a velvety and complex sauce; the heat definitely mellows when it sits.ALICHA (mild golden sauces): standouts are the Split Peas in Mild Sauce (Ye’ater Kik Alicha p.96); the Stewed Cabbage, Potatoes and Carrots in a Mild Sauce (Ye’Atakilt Alicha, p. 100); the Tofu Dumplings with Sweet Potatoes in Mild Sauce (p.106). I have not yet made the Ye’Shimbra Asa Alicha -Jalapeño Chickpea Cracker Stew or the Okra Stew; but soon!COOKED VEGETABLES AND CASSEROLES: Ethiopian-style Mac ’n’ Cheesie, p.126; I have frozen the cashew sauce for quick meals. Garlic Jo-Jos p. 128 AKA Crispy Garlicky Potatoes Baked with Ethiopian Spices; the Stewed, Seasoned Cabbage in Golden Tomato Sauce (Ye’tikil gomen be’timatim p.121); Tender Collard Greens mixed with Soft Cheese and Seasoned Oil (Ayib be’Gomen, p. 124); BOTH Green Bean recipes (Fasoulia, pages 117 & 118).COLD VEGETABLES & SALADS: Tender Potatoes with Pickled Beets and Onion in a Lime Vinaigrette (Ye’Denich Be’Kaysir Atakilt, p. 137). A fantastic pop of colour. It’s surprising how few ingredients can produce a stunning salad, a visual and taste feast. The Tempeh Salad (p.144), a spicy and creamy salad, is AMAZING. Can be made soy free using chickpeas.DUMPLINGS AND PROTEIN: the TVP sausage dumplings (p. 159). Since going gluten-free I’ve had many a vegan meatball fall apart. The ingenious way of keeping the kwas together is something I will adapt with other seasonings.————————————————In short (haha!), the book is well written, with detailed and clear instructions. The recipes are fail-proof because they were meticulously and rigorously tested. It includes nutritional information. It uses whole foods- such as pulses, legumes, vegetables- alongside pantry staples and spices to create flavourful and cheap (yes, cheap! if you forgo the optional spices or specialty ingredients) meals. You will find yourself craving the comforting and flavourful wot and vegetables.For me this book has been a life changer and I have cooked from it at least twice a week. I will incorporate the techniques and spices into my regular rotation. I am in rapture with Teff Love and have been spreading the gospel among my friends.Please, buy it; you aren’t going to regret it.I really love this book and want to spread the Teff Love.Edited to add:I am uploading photos of some recipes I've cooked and enjoyed from Teff Love.Also, I am updating my favourite recipes, as I've discovered a few hidden gems:BREAKFAST: The Blueberry Cinnamon Sourdough Pancakes are excellent. Fluffy, tangy and easy. You need to make the Teff Sourdough Starter. The Ye'Beqolo Genfo (Cheesy Corn Grits with a Spicy Seasoned Oil) is so comforting, creamy and savoury. The Berbere-Seasoned Oil combo is addicting and add so much to the porridge.KAY WOT (spicy red sauces): The Ye'Shimbra Asa Wot (Chickpea Flour Crackers in a Spicy Wine Sauce) is sublime. It's slow food at its best. It has a long cooking time, but you are rewarded with a complex, warm, spicy, rich, peppery sauce. If you want to treat yourself (or someone) to a sumptuous meal; make this.COLD VEGETABLES and SALADS: Butecha, Chickpea Fasting Eggs. It's made from chickpea flour and is refreshing and lemony. A very unassuming dish, but packed with flavour.
My family and I love Ethiopian food, and the recipes in this book nail the flavors down perfectly. If you cook from scratch regularly, you'll find that they're not complicated recipes. I do find that when I plan to make Ethiopian food for dinner, it requires some careful thought in advance. I also tend to make several different recipes for any given meal, so it's a lot of cooking. But again, none of it is very complicated, and the food is so delicious that it's worth it. We usually plan to eat it on the weekends when my husband is here to help with kids while I cook. My two year old scarfs down injera and beet salad, while my four-year-old is warming up to it all. :) Since it tends to be a lot of prep and cooking, I only make Ethiopian food every couple of months, but when I tell my husband and daughters that we're having "an Ethiopian Feast" for dinner, everyone gets pretty excited.Also, I love that the author explains that Ethiopian cuisine lends itself to vegan cooking. We've had so much seitan and tofu in our family that we're not crazy about meat analogues anymore. But so many of these recipes showcase vegetables, legumes, grains (teff!) as they are - flavorful, delicious, and filling - without trying to turn them into something they're not. For me, that makes Ethiopian cooking (and this book in particular) something very special.
So far, I have only tried two recipes: the spice-infused oil - which is added to most recipes here, and the garlic jojos (crispy, garlicky potato wedges baked with Ethiopian spices.) Let me tell you me and my husband devoured them yesterday night and I was already planning on cooking them again tonight! To me, these were delicious and even though I haven't prepared more than these two recipes, the book it's totally worth it.I can't complain about the spices she uses because I cook Indian food often and I already had most of the spices mentioned in the book, except for the koseret and - would you believe it- mild paprika (I have smokey paprika, though). I would say all the spices but the berbere and koseret can be found in Indian stores, so go for them (you can always use them in your curries).My only negative comments are regarding cardamom and berbere:- Some recipes call for ground cardamom and she doesn't always mention what type to use: green or black. The rule of thumb I've been taught is green cardamom usually goes in sweet dishes, while black cardamom is used in savory ones (in India, at least), but I have no clue about Ethiopian dishes :(- There's no recipe for dry berbere, only berbere sauce. Not that you can't find it online, but it would have been nice to have a great berbere recipe in the book.I'll update the review when I've cooked more dishes!
This is an excellent introduction to Ethiopian cooking. I have tried other cookbooks and even when making the spiced butter and berbere mix, the basics of the cuisine, something was off. As soon as I worked on the spiced oil from this cookbook, I knew that Ms. Berns had gotten it right. The scent in my kitchen was heavenly,. I used one of the mail-order sources that she recommended for some of the items. I found nearly everything else close by.As for the criticism that the recipes take too much time - yes, if you try to make the spiced oil and berbere paste right before you prepare your meal, you will be in the kitchen for a long time. Having these prepared in advance cuts down prep time enormously.I am not a vegan but I use this cookbook a lot.
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